Essaouira is a port city on Morocco’s Atlantic Coast, located about three hours west of Morocco by car. Essaouira is nicknamed the “Windy City of Africa,” its strong coastal winds make it a popular beach destination for kite-surfers and windsurfers. It is windy year-round with the winds being the least strong during September and October.
The Medina (old town) of Essaouira is protected by 18th-century seafront ramparts designed by European engineers called the “Skala de la Kasbah.” Essaouira’s charming, maze-like, Medina is filled with Portuguese, French, and Berber architecture and is a lovely place to wander and get lost exploring cafes and art galleries. Essaouira is also a cat lovers’ dream come true, recent estimates show there are over 3,000 street cats in Essaouira, and we fell in love with so many of them!
Getting around in Essaouira
Essaouira is a very safe and walkable city, even if you’re not staying in the Medina. But if you want to taxi around for whatever reason, the city has an amazing system with taxis: to go anywhere in town there is a flat rate and in May of 2024 the cost was 7 dirhams before sunset and 8 dirhams after sunset. Meters are not used, and there is no haggling, it’s just the rate. We kept it simple and gave them 10 dirhams anytime we took a cab (which was very rare). $10 dirham is about $1 USD.
Sights & Areas To Explore
The Beach – Self-explanatory and easy to find, the beach is usually quite windy in Essaouira, which makes it a popular place for kite surfers. Remember that there is no open alcohol allowed in public in Morocco, so if you want to enjoy a drink on the beach, have a seat at one of the handful of beach-front bars or restaurants. There is a nice, wide boardwalk that can be used for walking, biking, or running as well.
The Medina – Experiencing the Medina in Essaouira is very different than experiencing the Medina in Marrakech- it is much calmer, and in my opinion, more pleasant. You’ll find much less harassment, wider walkways, fewer mopeds, less yelling, more lighting, and fewer scammers. Allowing yourself to “get lost” in the Medina in Essaouira is so fun and beautiful, walk the streets and take in all the culture and art. In the Medina, the seaside breeze keeps you cool even on warm days. Don’t bother to go early in the morning if you want to shop or eat, as almost nothing will be open. In general, if you go before 10am you won’t find much up and running in that area.
The Fishing Port & Market – The fishing port and market are fun to walk around, the area is always busy with fish vendors selling all kinds of fresh-caught items. If you want you can buy fish to take home and cook, or buy fish and walk it over to one of the many grills and pay a small fee to have it cooked up for you to eat right there.
Gallery Kasbah – This large, multi-story art gallery is incredible, and they don’t hassle you or force you to buy anything. They welcome everyone in just to browse it as if it were a museum, even though everything is for sale. It was lovely to walk through. Go all the way to the top floor and roof, it is worth it. Maps: Gallery Kasbah
Restaurants & Cafes
Taverna Bolognese Da Maurizo – This small, Italian restaurant in the medina is AMAZING!! Their Italian chef cooks with fresh Italian ingredients, and everything is so tasty. The service is on point, and they serve alcohol with fair pricing. Cash and credit are both accepted, and reservations can be made but are not required. Do not skip visiting this restaurant if you enjoy Italian food. I personally recommend the burrata appetizer and their prosciutto crudo pizza. Maps: Taverna Bolognese
Grilled Fish in the Port – There isn’t a specific name or establishment to put into your GPS. In the port & fish market, you’ll easily find a handful of booths where you can ask them to grill whatever fresh fish they have on hand, or buy your own from a nearby fisherman and take it to the grill. Maps: Grilled Fish at the Port
Asian Red Food – Serving a well-priced, moderately sized menu of Asian & Thai food, Asian Red offers good portions. The seating is limited and it is cash only. The food is slightly better-than-average Asian food, but if you have only been eating Moroccan food for a while, it is a nice treat. Maps: Asian Red
Pasta Baladin – Located near the historical square “Skala,” this restaurant is attached to a Riad and has good, affordable, Italian Pasta that is served in large portions. They are closed on Mondays, are cash only, and have wifi. Maps: Pasta Baladin
Chez Zak – This is the spot to go if you enjoy a grilled lobster, though the menu has various other items as well. If you’d like, you can even bring your own cold white wine with you to enjoy with your meal. Maps: Chez Zak
Chez Loubna – This small, casual eatery serves great traditional Moroccan food and mint tea at a fair price, cash only. Maps: Chez Loubna
Cafe L’Esprit – This small cafe located in Medina serves good coffee, tea, and pastries. If you haven’t tried Moroccan coffee yet, this is a great place to do it for $30 Dirham. Maps: Cafe L’Esprit
Sisterhood Coffee & Shop – This cute cafe offers coffee, tea, and various breakfast treats to be enjoyed in their cozy space. You can also shop for men’s and women’s clothing and accessories in their vintage clothing shop. On Sundays, they have a brunch with a DJ. Maps: Sisterhood Coffee
M Beach – My favorite beachfront dining boasts big comfy seats, both indoor and outdoor. Outdoor there are large umbrellas for those who want shade as well as sunny seats for those wanting to soak up the sun. Other things you can find there are a couple of frequent resident cats who love to snuggle, and well-priced wines by the glass, all right in front of the beach. Maps: M Beach
Crepes Time – This crepe stand located at the main square just off of the fish market is so yummy. My personal favorites here are the ham & cheese, and the Biscoff & strawberry. Maps: Crepes Time
Bars
Restaurant D’Jazy – D’Jazzy is a really cute and funky live music bar. Great musicians and singers perform here. There is a board out front with their open hours and days listed that is better to check than what is listed online. This spot is definitely worth a visit. Maps: Restaurant D’Jazzy
Unknown but cheap – A true definition of a dive bar- this is a very local bar, but tourists are welcome! Here you’ll find a very small simple menu on the wall listing 4 wines, 4 beers, and a few liquors. Free hot snacks are brought around to every table often. Smoking is allowed, and they accept cash only. You won’t find many pics online, as photos aren’t allowed to be taken inside. This bar is very cheap but extremely no-frills. If you like experiencing local hole-in-the-walls, then this spot is for you! If you are someone who will ask what brands of liquor they have, or will want to sample your wine before committing, it is not for you. There are no signs at the door to know it is the correct spot, you just have to trust the map link. Maps: Unknown But Cheap
Shops
Chez Hakima Women’s Co-Op shop – This women’s cooperative is an amazing place to buy spices, teas, argan products, and honey. Maps: Chez Hakima
Zawya 33 – The founder of this unique and vibrant art gallery, musical instrument shop, and restaurant hosts jam sessions here frequently where you can hang out in a cozy room while listening to Gnawa music for a few hours. Stop by his shop to purchase art and see which nights he is hosting a jam session during your visit. Maps: Zawya 33
Au Petit Bonhomme La Chance – This is the first shop ever opened and owned by a woman in Essaouira, which opened in 1995. The owner’s name is Habiba and she is very sweet. She sells various handmade oils, soaps, spices, and teas, and is a henna artist. She speaks fluent Arabic, French, and conversational English. Her henna is beautiful, I highly recommend it! Maps: Au Petit Bonhomme La Chance
Hammams, Spas & Salons
Azur Spa Essaouira – This hammam is located in the middle of the medina but is easy to find with Google Maps and simply looking around for their signs. This beautiful hammam and spa is multiple floors tall, with caring and professional staff, and the cost is of good value compared to the others in the area. Payment is by cash only. You can request a reservation on their website. Azur Spa
Sidi Magdoul Hammam & spa – This is not in the medina and is about a 30-minute walk south of the medina and it is worth it. They provide very nice treatments and have a wide range of options. Payment is cash only and your visit can be reserved through WhatsApp. Sidi Magdoul Hammam
Salon de Coiffure Ait Maten – If you need a haircut in Essaouira, this is a great place to go. This small hair salon is run by an exceptional hairdresser, Karim. Everything is clean and Karim is very professional and pays attention to every little detail in his hair styling. He speaks Arabic, French, and English and the prices are good. Maps: Salon de Coiffure
Outings & Tours
Free walking tour – One of my favorite things to do in a new city on arrival is to join a free walking tour, it is a great way to meet people, get to know a city, and make the most of the rest of your time there. This tour was led by an expat from Russia named Ilya who has lived in Essaouira for several years. He will walk you through the city showing you his favorite spots and tips. It’s not deeply historical, but I enjoyed it as much as or more than the ones I’ve been on that are. It is “free,” but you should tip what you can. $8-15 USD per person is a fair suggested tip for these types of tours in most of the world. Free Walk Tour
We absolutely loved our two weeks in Essaouira, it was our favorite city in Morocco. I loved that while it is a calm beach town, there is a lot of art and character and always something to do. Essaouira is a fairly liberal city as far as Moroccan cities go, there is a large music and creative scene, and we enjoyed many delicious meals there. We both hope to return one day and spend more time there. While Essaouira can visited through one of the many day trips from Morocco, I fully believe the town is worth much more time than that. Enjoy your trip to Essaouira, happy travels!
The Ambitious Passport 