Don’t let the word “island” trick your brain into thinking that Crete is small.. It is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, measuring 160 miles east to west, and boasting 650 miles of coastline. and deserves at least 1-2 weeks to explore it superficially and much longer to take a deeper dive. Crete is the most populated of all of the Greek Islands, and is known for its beautiful beaches which are considered some of the best in Europe.
Getting There & Getting Around
Crete can be reached by a short flight from Athens or a ferry trip that takes 8-10 hours depending on your arrival port. When we visited, we opted for the flight as it was low-cost and more time-efficient.
To move around the various regions of Crete, renting a car is the best way to go. There are public buses that can be used to navigate between the larger cities on the island but do not run as frequently as what is customary in other parts of the world, so the schedules can be frustrating if you’re trying to maximize your time.
The major cities of Heraklion, Rethymnon, Chania, and Agios Nikolao are all very pedestrian-friendly and walkable and do not require a car for inter-city exploration. We stayed on Crete for a month and only rented a car when we drove to explore other areas of the island away from our base of Heraklion, and only took taxis three times: to get to the airport, to visit Knossos and to go to an all-inclusive resort, which I will touch on later.
Heraklion: The Capital
The capital of Crete, Heraklion, also known as Iraklio, is an adorable port town filled with picturesque streets that are packed with countless bustling restaurants, shops, and bars. Heraklion is one of the oldest inhabited regions in Europe and is a great place to base yourself when you arrive in Crete.
The Palace of Knossos, a major center of the Minoan civilization dating back to approximately 2000-1350 BCE, is often considered Europe’s oldest city, and is found in Heraklion. The Palace is regarded as one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece and can be visited by taking a taxi from one of the various taxi stands in Heraklion center for a flat rate, which was the same cost as the bus with 3 passengers splitting it. Tip: buy your ticket ahead of time on the official site here; while it is not necessary, you will skip the long ticket line at the entrance gate by doing this and save yourself a lot of time.
Where to eat in Heralkion
- Il Pazzo: A truly great Italian restaurant with incredible pizzas and fair prices
- Apiri Greek Eatery: Delicious Mediterranean food, a bit higher cost than some other nearby restaurants though
- Frankly Cafe: This cafe is the only place in town we found with AC and high-speed wifi, a great place to cool off and work while enjoying a Greek coffee.
- La Mexicana: If you want a break from Mediterranean cuisine, this Mexican restaurant hits the spot! Money-saving tip: the quesadilla dish served up more food than the tacos, and cost less. Don’t skip on their frozen margarita..they were life- changing on a hot day for us.
- High Hopes Taproom: This simple taproom serves up affordable craft beers near the water, and usually has 1 or 2 friendly bar cats hanging around, which is always a plus in my book.
- Kayiabee: We found great value at this Greek restaurant, large portions, good prices, and delicious.
Heraklion: Treating Yourself!
I had amazing massages and an incredible facial treatment in Heraklion. My Massage is a spa that offers various services at an affordable prices. If you’re staying in Heraklion for a bit, they also offer a punch card to earn a free massage after a certain number of visits. I went here a couple times, but not enough to get to that free massage, but had I been there longer I would have definitely been back enough times! For facial care I highly recommend visiting Eumorfia Panera Derma & Botique, my experience there was simply just perfect.
Heraklion: On, In, Near the water
Agia Pelagia is a nice beach that is not too far of a bus ride from Heraklion, and is worth a visit. You can catch the local bus from Heraklion, ride for about 40 minutes, get off at the last stop (pictured below), then walk downhill for 10 minutes and you’ll find beautiful clear waters of Pelagia beach. You can buy your bus ticket with a credit card at a self-service kiosk or purchase with cash at the ticket counter. Coming back there is no ticket counter to purchase at, so be prepared to have euros to pay for your ride directly on the bus. Friends of ours who visited were not prepared for this and got lucky that a nice local gave them bus money, but I wouldn’t recommend counting on that.
TUI Magic Life is an all-inclusive resort located about 15 minutes by car from Heraklion and allows non-guests to visit by purchasing a day pass for 50 euros. You do not need to reserve your day pass ahead of time and can purchase it at the check-in desk when you arrive with cash or credit card. The day pass gives you access to all of the resort bars, restaurants, buffets, swimming pools, and a private beach. Full transparency, the beach here was not the most beautiful of the beaches I visited on Crete, but if you’re looking for an affordable way to have beach access with loungers and unlimited food and drinks for a day, it’s a nice experience for a low cost.
If you want to spend a day on a boat, booking a day to visit Dia Island is a must-do. We loved our experience from the moment it began. For about $70 we enjoyed a 7-hour, stress-free day that started at the port where we boarded a sailing yacht with one other family and were taken on a lovely ride to Dia Island.
When we anchored at the island they provided us with paddle boards and snorkel gear and served us a fresh lunch on the boat with local wine. You can read more about this trip and book it here.
Crete: Outside of Heralkion
Rethymno, or Rethimno, is a city on the north coast of the Greek island of Crete about an hour from Heraklion. It can easily be visited in a half day and is a nice stopping point between Heraklion and Chania. Rethymno is home to an old Venetian Harbor filled with fishing boats and tavernas and the long, sandy Rethymno Beach runs to the east. It is a nice town to explore on foot just soaking in the local vibes and beautiful streets.
Lake Kournas is a lake found about halfway between Rethymno and Chaina, and it is a really nice place to stop. This peaceful, fresh water lake surrounded by lush, mountains is a popular place for swimming, kayaking, pedal boating, snorkeling, and paddleboarding. There are free sunbeds to lounge on if that’s more your style and plenty of restaurants with large shaded patios to enjoy a meal while taking in the views. We really enjoyed the restaurant pictured below; when you go there don’t skip the baked feta appetizer.
Chania is a charming medieval town located on the western side of Crete that is known for its Egyptian Lighthouse, Venetian Shiyards, the Yali Tazmii mosque, and the Byzae Walls. Surrounding Chania are some of the most beautiful beaches, in Greece, which is why this town serves as a perfect base for exploring the breathtaking beaches that Crete is known for.
Elafonisi & Falasarna Beaches are two of the most popular beach destinations on Crete. Elafonisi is known for its clear, blue, shallow waters and strikingly beautiful pink sands. Falasarna is a protected nature reserve with turquoise water, a tranquil atmosphere, and many amenities. Elafonisi gets very busy by 10am, so it’s best to visit as early as possible if you want to avoid the crowds. It is advised to visit both of these locations with a tour group. Despite having a rental car and staying in Chiana, we visited these beaches with a small group tour and it was seamless.
Costing only $100, this 10-hour day trip was well worth it. They provided comfortable and punctual transportation, a very friendly guide, beach pads to lay on, an umbrella, and a cooler packed with snacks, water, and beer. It is possible to visit these locations with a 4-wheel drive rental car, but it can be complicated and challenging. I can’t emphasize enough how great this day trip was, having the ease of a driver and a local guide made this day perfect.
Episkopi Beach is a stunning, sandy beach we found by zooming in on Google Maps looking for options to stop at on our drive from Chania back home to Heraklion. We had never heard of it and it was such a sweet surprise! We had our own private beach tipi with bean bag chairs and enjoyed really affordable drinks and charcuterie with the most gorgeous sunset views. Its worth a visit if you have the time!
The Ambitious Passport 